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APULICA / FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND PULSES

Airola onion

Slow Food Presidium · PAT · Fruit, vegetables and pulses · Campania

In brief

History and origin

Airola is a small town in the Valle Caudina, in the province of Benevento, overlooked by Mount Tairano and by the ruins of a medieval castle on the Monteoliveto hill, with the Taburno massif behind. Its land is crossed by the Tesa and Faenza streams, which join to form the Isclero river: through the Carolino Aqueduct, its waters fed the great cascade of the Royal Palace of Caserta.

The onion is part of the town's collective memory. Older farmers remember fields that reached a hundred hectares; after a decline between the two world wars, production picked up strongly in the early 1950s, when horse-drawn carts came from the Naples hinterland and local brokers, the sanzan, acted as go-betweens.

From the 1970s tobacco and industry shrank cultivation to a few hectares. Yet Airola's people are still nicknamed cipollari, the onion folk, and the Slow Food Presidium is working to make the onion a resource for growers again.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla di Airola · Regione Campania — Prodotti tradizionali: Cipolla di Airola

Area and method of production

The area includes the municipalities of the Valle Caudina: Airola, Bucciano, Bonea, Moiano, Montesarchio, San Martino Valle Caudina, Cervinara, Rotondi, Paolisi and Arpaia. In Airola the historic areas were the districts of Padula, Feniello, Scarpone, Cortecalce and Pantanosi, where nearby streams nourish the soil without waterlogging it.

Sowing takes place between late November and early December, and transplanting between February and March. Growers have always produced their own seed, choosing the largest and soundest onions.

Harvest, by hand, runs from mid-July to mid-August; the onions are left in the field for a first drying and then moved to storage. The custodian growers' rules ban chemical weedkillers and require rotations of at least three years, low-impact fertilising and irrigation only when strictly needed.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla di Airola · Regione Campania — Prodotti tradizionali: Cipolla di Airola

How to recognise it

The Airola onion usually has an elongated bulb, though the regional sheet describes flattened, round and oblong types. The outer skin is a bright copper colour; inside it is pink or white, with violet streaks along the layers of the bulb.

It is medium-large in size. The taste is sweet and savoury, never pungent: a quality the Presidium attributes to the land near the streams, fed by their water without becoming marshy.

It is sold loose or, more often, in bunches of about five kilograms. The onions on the market today come from seeds and bulbs handed down in farming families, and are the same ones grown by past generations.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla di Airola · Regione Campania — Prodotti tradizionali: Cipolla di Airola

In the kitchen

It is eaten raw in salads, or in soups, which tradition enriches with broad beans or beans and serves with bread. It is also excellent for fritters and omelettes.

Its finest use, though, is genovese: a pasta sauce, traditionally for maccheroni della zita or mezzane, made with onions and beef. For this dish, what matters is precisely the never-pungent sweetness of the Airola onion.

The bond with the table also shows in the town's imagery: one of Airola's murals depicts dinner being prepared, with a woman slicing an onion.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla di Airola

Where to taste it

The place to discover it is Airola, in July and August, while the harvest is under way. The Valle Caudina town keeps the ruins of its medieval castle and, in its murals, the memory of its farming tradition.

The Presidium involves Airola's custodian growers and the support of the municipalities of Airola and San Martino Valle Caudina: it is in the valley villages, from those who grow it, that the onion is to be found.

The trip links well with the Royal Palace of Caserta: the water of the Isclero river, carried by the Carolino Aqueduct, is the same that fed the great cascade in its park.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla di Airola

Protection

When

Where

Campania