Apulica — Taste Travel Together

APULICA / FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND PULSES

Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria (bergamot essential oil)

PDO · Fruit, vegetables and pulses · Calabria

In brief

History and origin

The most likely theory is that bergamot was born from a spontaneous mutation of other citrus fruits, such as bitter orange or lime, in the late seventeenth century in the area of today's province of Reggio Calabria, the same area where it is still produced.

The fortune of its essence is owed to Gian Paolo Feminis, who emigrated to Cologne in 1680 and created an ointment he called acqua admirabilis: his heirs patented it under the German city's name, and eau de cologne descends from it. Italia.it also recalls the Café Procope, opened in Paris in 1686 by a Sicilian ice-cream maker, where ices, sorbets and syrups flavoured with bergamot water were served, and the apothecary next door who first thought of turning the essence into perfume. Since then bergamot has remained one of perfumery's essential raw materials, loved by writers, artists and travellers, Gabriele D'Annunzio among them.

The essential oil has been a Protected Designation of Origin since 2001, under the name Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – Olio essenziale.

Sources: Qualigeo — Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - Olio essenziale DOP · Italia.it — Via del Bergamotto: Reggio Calabria e Costa Ionica · eAmbrosia — Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - Olio essenziale (PDO-IT-0105)

Area and method of production

The production area is a strip of about one hundred kilometres along the Ionian coast of the province of Reggio Calabria. The essence is extracted from the fruit of three varieties of Citrus bergamia, Feminella, Castagnaro and Fantastico, which have fairly thin peel clinging to the flesh, smooth or slightly wrinkled and lemon yellow, and firm green-yellow flesh with a sour, bitter taste.

Groves may not exceed 450 trees per hectare, and maximum production is 400 quintals of fruit per hectare. Harvesting is by hand and runs from November to March, when the colour of the fruit begins to turn from green to yellow.

The oil is cold-extracted with a peeling machine that uses only pressurised, atomised water; it is then separated from the water by centrifuging. The yield is between 350 and 750 grams of essence per quintal of fruit, and the oil is collected in stainless steel tanks of one to four tonnes.

Sources: Qualigeo — Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - Olio essenziale DOP

How to recognise it

Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – Olio essenziale is a clear liquid, sometimes with a solid deposit, ranging in colour from green to greenish yellow. Its pleasant, fresh scent recalls the peel of the bergamot fruit.

Its value in perfumery lies in its power to fix the bouquet: according to the product sheet, in perfumes that use it the scent can last more than 24 hours, far longer than the three to four hours of products fixed with synthetic oils. It therefore remains one of perfumery's basic materials, starting with eaux de cologne.

It is sold all year round, in drums of 25, 50, 100 and 180 kilos or in glass containers.

Sources: Qualigeo — Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - Olio essenziale DOP

In the kitchen

Bergamot essence has a long history at the table too. Among its uses the product sheet lists candied fruit and tea, as well as pipe tobacco; Italia.it recalls bergamot's success in pastry making and the sorbets and syrups made with bergamot water served in Paris as early as the late seventeenth century.

Its other uses are in the cosmetics industry, where it both fixes the bouquet of perfumes and harmonises the other essences, and to the pharmaceutical industry, which uses its antiseptic and antibacterial power, above all in dentistry and gynaecology. In recent years it has also found success in sun creams with UV filters.

Sources: Qualigeo — Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - Olio essenziale DOP · Italia.it — Via del Bergamotto: Reggio Calabria e Costa Ionica

Where to taste it

Bergamot's journey begins in Reggio Calabria, the «City of Bergamot». Italia.it suggests the Citrus Museum as the first stop, one of Calabria's company museums, where visitors can see the machines used to extract essence and juice; the most famous is the Gangeri machine, derived from a model invented in 1840 by Nicola Barillà of Reggio. The visit continues along the Falcomatà seafront, to the National Archaeological Museum of the Riace Bronzes and among the Liberty buildings housing perfumeries and herbalists, where the classic souvenir is a small bottle of bergamot cologne.

From Reggio the Costa dei Gelsomini runs along the Ionian among citrus groves and villages perched on Aspromonte. In Bova Marina, a fishing town with pale beaches, you are in the heart of bergamot country; higher up, in Bova, the Path of Rural Civilisation displays among its lanes the presses once used to extract the essence. Pentedattilo, clinging to the «five fingers» of Mount Calvario, completes the itinerary.

Sources: Italia.it — Via del Bergamotto: Reggio Calabria e Costa Ionica · Italia.it — Itinerario lungo la Costa dei Gelsomini · Italia.it — Bova, Pentedattilo e Roghudi Vecchio

Protection

When

Where

Calabria

Read more

Reggio Calabria bergamot

The essential-oil PDO, the three varieties, the winter harvest, the story leading to eau de cologne, the citrus museum and a day between Reggio, its seafront and the coast of bergamot groves.

Read the guide →