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APULICA / FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND PULSES

Acquaviva red onion

PAT · Slow Food Presidium · Fruit, vegetables and pulses · Puglia

In brief

History and origin

Acquaviva delle Fonti, in the heart of the province of Bari, owes its name to the abundance of fresh water that springs from a perennial underground aquifer. On this land the onion is a historic crop: an 1875 text on the town's palatine church, written by a canon, lists the products of the fertile soil, oil, wheat, anise, cumin, almonds and pulses, and stresses that the most profitable harvest for farmers was onions, sought after even in distant regions and considered better than those from other soils.

As early as the nineteenth century, then, the Acquaviva onion was traded on markets outside the region. The bond with the town is such that popular culture has dedicated several poems to the bulb, and Acquaviva is known as U Paìs d'i cpodde, the town of onions.

The Acquaviva onion has been on the national list of traditional food products since 2002 and is a Slow Food Presidium, supported by the Puglia Region and Unioncamere Puglia. The growers belong to an association working to make it known and appreciated, because low yields and manual work make it demanding to grow.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla rossa di Acquaviva · Atlante dei PAT di Puglia (Regione Puglia, Università di Bari) — Cipolla di Acquaviva delle Fonti

Area and method of production

Cultivation is restricted to the municipal territory of Acquaviva delle Fonti. The soils are ideal: well drained and aerated, deep, rich in potassium, medium-textured tending to silty, with a mostly mild microclimate. Growing follows tradition and remains largely manual.

The sources differ on sowing time: the Slow Food Presidium gives September, under a waning moon, while the PAT list entry says February. They agree on the harvest, which runs from early July to August.

Chemical treatments are kept to a minimum, which means extra work in the field: hoeing and hand weeding of the rows must be repeated often. The average yield per hectare is markedly lower than the national average, partly because of the variety's own traits and partly because of the way it is grown. After harvest the bulbs are sold in wooden crates, in net bags and in the oldest form, the serte, braids in which the onions are woven together with leaves or other plant fibres.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla rossa di Acquaviva · Atlante dei PAT di Puglia (Regione Puglia, Università di Bari) — Cipolla di Acquaviva delle Fonti

How to recognise it

The red onion of Acquaviva is instantly recognised by its shape, flattened at the poles: a disc two or three centimetres thick and up to a hand-span wide. The bulbs vary greatly in size, from 7 to 15 centimetres across, but tend to be large: they often exceed half a kilo and some reach more than a kilogram.

The colour ranges from carmine red to violet and fades inwards to white. The fleshy layers are juicy, protected by thin papery skins in colours from reddish to copper.

Its fame, however, rests above all on its sweetness. The Presidium describes it as renowned for its sweet taste, and those who taste it find it showy in appearance but delicate and sweet on the palate, enough to win over even people who usually dislike onions. Its very reputation has bred imitations: buyers should beware of onions sold under this name that do not come from Acquaviva.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla rossa di Acquaviva · Atlante dei PAT di Puglia (Regione Puglia, Università di Bari) — Cipolla di Acquaviva delle Fonti · BiodiverSO (Università di Bari, PSR Puglia) — Acquaviva delle Fonti vive un'estate in festa con la sua cipolla rossa

In the kitchen

The dish most closely tied to the Acquaviva onion is the calzone, the Apulian onion pie that is itself a traditional product: a flatbread filled with onions, with olives, anchovies and other ingredients depending on the version, traditionally made during Lent and Holy Week. In Acquaviva the onion calzone is a matter of civic pride, celebrated even in a dialect poem from the 1980s, and in summer the streets smell of calzone and baked onions.

Gratinated baked onions are another dish of the regional tradition: the onions are cut crosswise, dressed with vinegar, breadcrumbs, pecorino, oil, salt and pepper and baked slowly until a golden crust forms. The recipes note that onions flattened at the poles, sweet and easy to cook, such as the Acquaviva onion, are well suited to this dish.

Its sweetness has inspired less usual uses too: in town it is even made into ice cream.

Sources: Atlante PAT Puglia (Università di Bari, Regione Puglia) — Il Calzone di cipolla. Bibliografia completa · Atlante PAT Puglia (Università di Bari, Regione Puglia) — Cipolle al forno gratinate · BiodiverSO (Università di Bari, PSR Puglia) — Acquaviva delle Fonti vive un'estate in festa con la sua cipolla rossa

Where to taste it

The red onion of Acquaviva is to be found in Acquaviva delle Fonti, the only municipality where it is grown. The right time is summer, from July to August: during those weeks the town revolves around the harvest, with farmers in the fields, laden carts, improvised stalls in front of houses and sellers along the country roads. It is sold at local markets, directly on farms and also at wholesale markets.

Acquaviva's calendar devotes several events to its onion: the Onion Festival, which the regional press already reported in 2006 as a new Apulian festival, the Onion Calzone Festival and the Cipollessia event. The festivals are usually held towards the end of summer; for each year's dates it is best to rely on the town council's announcements.

Out of season the Acquaviva onion also reaches supermarkets, but summer in the town is when it is truly experienced: buying it from the growers, perhaps in the traditional braid, is also the surest way to avoid imitations.

Sources: Fondazione Slow Food — Presidio Cipolla rossa di Acquaviva · Atlante dei PAT di Puglia (Regione Puglia, Università di Bari) — Cipolla di Acquaviva delle Fonti · Atlante PAT Puglia (Università di Bari, Regione Puglia) — Il Calzone di cipolla. Bibliografia completa · BiodiverSO (Università di Bari, PSR Puglia) — Acquaviva delle Fonti vive un'estate in festa con la sua cipolla rossa

Protection

When

Where

Puglia