Molise extra virgin olive oil

History and origin

The olive tree has very old roots in Molise, and Latin writers bear witness to it. Cicero, in his speech Pro Cluentio, praised the industry of the people of Larino and the fertility of their land; Horace, in his Satires, recommended the oil of Venafro for two sauces of his day; Pliny the Elder told of olive trees brought to the area by Licinius and of the quality of their oil.

Archaeology adds to the texts: almost every Roman villa found in the region had cellars with large oil jars, a sign of plentiful production already in antiquity. At Venafro the Aurina cultivar, native to the town, is identified with the Romans' ancient "Licinia", and alongside it historic varieties such as Pallante, Rossuola and Lagrimella survive.

Over the centuries Aurina was joined by Gentile di Larino, Rosciola and Oliva nera di Colletorto. Today the slopes of Monte Santa Croce and Monte Corno above Venafro form the first regional park devoted to the olive tree, created to preserve traditional olive growing and its ancient terraces.

Sources: Qualigeo (Fondazione Qualivita) — Molise DOP · Associazione Nazionale Città dell'Olio — Parco Regionale Storico Agricolo dell'Olivo di Venafro

Area and method of production

The production area of Molise PDO extra virgin olive oil covers almost the whole region, in the provinces of Campobasso and Isernia, from the inland hills to the uplands facing the Adriatic coast.

The specification sets the varieties: Aurina, Gentile di Larino, Oliva nera di Colletorto and Leccino, alone or together, must make up at least 80% of the groves. The remainder, up to 20%, may come from other varieties found in the region, such as Paesana bianca, Sperone di gallo, Olivastro and Rosciola.

Olives are picked from the tree, by hand or mechanically, from the start of ripening; fruit that has fallen to the ground may not be used. They travel to the mill in rigid, perforated crates and wait in cool, airy rooms. Milling must take place within two days of picking, and malaxation may last no more than 50 minutes, with water kept at no more than 25 °C.

Sources: Qualigeo (Fondazione Qualivita) — Molise DOP

How to recognise it

Molise PDO oil is yellow with green glints. On the nose it is fruity, from light to medium in intensity; on the palate the fruitiness returns, with a gentle touch of pungency or bitterness.

The specification sets precise parameters: free acidity below 0.5%, a panel test score above 6.5 and total polyphenols above 100 ppm, values that describe a fresh, well-kept oil.

It is sold only in glass containers of up to five litres. The label carries the name Molise with the words Protected Designation of Origin, the European symbol and the year of production, and each pack bears a guarantee seal with a unique alphanumeric code that traces the batch.

Sources: Qualigeo (Fondazione Qualivita) — Molise DOP

In the kitchen

The official descriptions recommend Molise PDO oil above all raw on pasta dishes and as a dressing for soups and pulse stews, where its fruitiness and slight pungency suit home cooking well.

To keep it at its best it should be treated as a delicate food: stored cool and dark, between 14 and 18 °C, away from heat and from strong-smelling foods. The advice is to use it within four to six months of pressing, when its aroma is fullest.

In Molise oil also goes into traditional sweets: piccillati, for instance, are a shortcrust made with oil and wine and filled with grape jam. It is a simple way to see how oil accompanies the region from the soup to the end of the meal.

Sources: Qualigeo (Fondazione Qualivita) — Molise DOP · Italia.it — Molise, prodotti e piatti tipici

Where to taste it

To see Molise oil in its landscape, Venafro is the most telling stop: on the slopes of Monte Santa Croce the regional Olive Park preserves terraced groves, old varieties and remains of Roman-era farm buildings, in a setting where woodland climbs up to holm oak and beech.

In the Isernia area, Fornelli is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy and a City of Oil, surrounded by olive trees that yield a fruity, light oil. In lower Molise, Larino is tied to the Gentile di Larino variety: the area is still farmed mainly for wheat and olives, and its old agricultural fair has a pavilion devoted to local produce.

Colletorto, which gives its name to one of the varieties in the specification, completes a map that crosses the whole region: a journey along Molise's droving tracks inevitably passes through olive groves.

Sources: Associazione Nazionale Città dell'Olio — Parco Regionale Storico Agricolo dell'Olivo di Venafro · Italia.it — Fornelli, il borgo delle Torri e dell'Olio · Italia.it — Un viaggio nel Molise di Larino e Guglionesi · Qualigeo (Fondazione Qualivita) — Molise DOP

Protection

• Protected designation of origin (PDO) — PDO-IT-0166 (eAmbrosia — Molise (PDO-IT-0166))

When

• The sources consulted give no months.

Where

Molise

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